D Serijas Hibritizēšanai

[laksh]

Domaaju te vareetu likt visaadu info, ko kaa var buuveet D seerijas dzineejiem un ap tiem

[laksh]

Laba informaacija ko kaa var buuveet D serijas dzineejaa...


D-Series Engine Building Notes



Using LS Rods in a D series:

The crank ends of the LS rods and D series are same size around at 1.890" (48mm). The crank end bore width needs to be milled to match the D16 crank rod journals. Shave .022" off each side of the crank end of the rod.
The piston end bore needs to be bushed to match the D16 piston's smaller pin size. The pin on the LS pistons is 0.826" (21mm), the pin on the D16 pistons is 0.748" (19mm). You need the custom made aluminum-bronze bushing with a width of 0.786, ID. 0.748, OD. 0.827 +(over) three thousands due to the bushing will be pressed in the small-end of the LS rods, so the bushing won't come out of the hole. Crower sells these for around $40 a set.

B16A Rods matched with non-US Supra 1G-GTE pistons:

I calculated the following #'s for this combo
Piston volume = -7cc dish
Compression height = 33mm
Rod length = 134mm

Pro's of this setup = Strong B16 rods and forged Supra pistons

This is information has been gathered from Turbopanda ( username on http://www.honda-tech.com ). He sells this set-up for about $400.

The shorter B16 rods with a D16 stroke will result in a 1.49 rod/stroke ratio, down from the stock D16 1.52 R/S ratio.

The Toyota pistons' height make up for the length of the rod, that's why it’s still usable in a D series engine.

1G-GTE Supra pistons are 75mm. B16A rods are a lot stronger than D16 rods, and can handle boost way better. The rods are modified in order to accept the Toyota pistons. Installation is as simple as replacing your pistons and rods. The Crankshaft needs no modification, although the bottom of the short block will need to be notched a little so that there is enough clearance for the B16A rods



Using Susuki Vitara Pistons:

Need to get them out of the 98-99 Suzuki Vaitra 1.6 sohc (also used in some Suzuki Esteems)
code of piston = G16
NOT Forged
Have floating style wrist pins.
Can use stock wrist pins.
75mm bore (available os)

PDN 98-00 GX Pistons With LS Rods:

The crank ends of the LS rods and D series are same size at 1.890"
Shave .022" of each side of the crank end of the rod.
With GX pistons, you don't need the small end bushed
they just press on. (the GX piston has a 21mm wrist pin)
GX Standard size piston part number = 13010-PDN-A00
GX Standard piston ring set number= 13011-PDN-A01

PMS 01-03 GX:

These pistons have the standard size D series wrist pins, but have a low 27mm compression height. Ironically this low compression height coupled with 137mm VX rods in a D15 make an interesting combo...

Head Milling & Timing:
For every .012" (some say .010") shaved from the head the cam timing is retarded 1 deg

Using a D17 crank in a D16:

D17 Crank = 94.4 mm stroke
D17 Rods = 137mm
D17 Pistons = 27mm compression height

You need to use the D17 oil pump because the snout on the crank is much thicker then the y8 crank. No problem because it actually bolts on like a champ. Problem, there is no accommodation for a dip stick, the y8 pump has a hole in it for the dipstick the d17's pump does not.

The D17 rods are thinner at the crank end than D16 rods, so some machining may be needed depending on the rod you use.


How to clay for valve clearance:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/claymotor/clay.php

How to CC your piston's dish or dome volume:

http://www.rehermorrison.com/engineCalc/pistonDome.htm

How to CC your head:

http://www.yarchive.net/car/compression ... asure.html
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/73-77ag/tech/checkcc/
http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/ ... head.shtml



D15 Tech:

When putting other pistons in a D15 you can use a set of VX rods (the calculator assumes you will be using them) effectively increasing the compression height of any D series piston by 3mm. The D15 rods have a 45mm crank end.( D16 = 48mm )

MR Bone's A6 Cam swap how to (for putting a CRX Si cam into a D15) :

BEFORE cam swap, set your ignition timing at 16 BTDC, the center mark. Bring motor to TDC, swap cams. Adjust lash (.006I/.008E for me) and start motor. Idle will be funky high or low, depending on which way you installed the cam (retarded or advanced).

Let engine warm to normal temps, then use cam gear to adjust IGNITION timing back to 16 BTDC at same rpm as you checked it BEFORE the cam swap. Once you get it right, your cam is now ZEROED. The cam GEAR should read 4-5 degrees Advanced/Retard depending on install.


About Throttle Bodies:

B series and H series throttle bodies bolt on to D series intake manifolds. Most D series TB's are 56mm while the B series are 60mm. This is a very cheap effective upgrade. Note: You should port match the intake manifold to the bigger TB.

How to Port Match Your Intake Manifold:

Basically, just take your TB gasket, place it on the intake manifold, use a marker and trace along the edges. Then dremel away.

Orginaalaa lapa. http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/pistonnotes.htm

[laksh]

Ja nu kaads izdomaa taisiit D2B projektu(D serijas motors un B serijas kaarba) tad luuk noderiiga informaacija...

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-foru ... n-d2b.html

Pasaulee jaudiigaakaa un aatraakaa Dserija, arii protams ar D2B
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2921791

[laksh]

F/H2D projekti(F/H serijas motors pie D serijas kaarbas)

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech ... index.html

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=19294&highlight=

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1889537

[laksh]

Un te es pats baigi daudz ko esmu shtukojis kaadu projektu buutu intresanti uzbiidiit...
piemeeram loti reti pasaulee ir, bet ir D18 projekti.
Vis biezaak tiek nemta talkaa D17 motora klokene, un mazliet lielaaka izmeera virzuli, kaa varam redzeet shajaa projektaa --> http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-b ... build.html

Bet man pasham ienaaca praataa mazliet savaadaaka doma, mazliet leetaak domaaju sanaaktu ja D serijas dzineeja ieliktu B serijas virzulus. Tiem kas nezin, D serijas virzulis ir 75mm diametraa, bet B srijai(B16-B17-B18-un ja nemaldos arii daziem B20 motoriem) ir 81mm. Kas dotu attirciigo litraazu 1855cc. bet nemot veera ka krasi tiek palielinaats virzula diametrs, ir attieciigi jaapiemeklee virzuli, jo kompresijas pakaape krietni palielinaas... piemeeram liekot USDM B18C1 virzulus kompresija sanaaks 13:1, ja esat gatavi braukt uz E85 degvielu, buus ok... bet ja veelaties braukt uz parasto 95-98 iesaku likt B16 klanus, kuri ir iisaaki nekaa standarta D16 klani...

Bet protams jaatgaadina ka nevar vienkaarshi paarhoneet bloku un dabuut iexaa 81mm virzulus,,, bloks ir jaapaarchaulo, jaamaina chaulas, jo standarta chaulas nevarees izurbt liidz 81mm...

Turpinot par B16 klaniem, B16 klani ir 134mm tas ir par 3mm iisaaki nekaa B18, un D16, jaa kas tiem kas nezinaaja tad B18 un D16 klana garumi ir vienaadi 137mm(iznemot B18c1/c5, shie klani ir par 0.9mm garaaki 137,9mm) jums derees B18A/B-B20B/Z klani, pasaulee veel ir populaari likt D16 turbo motoros standarta B18 klanus kas ir izturiigaaki par parastiem D16 klaniem, vieniigaa atshkiriiba no D16 klaniem ir virzula pirksta izmeers, kaa jau var lasiit shaa topika saakumaa, B serijas pirksts ir 21mm D serijai 19mm...
Bet taa nav probleema ja domaajat likt B serijas virzulus...
Nu taa virzamies taalaak...
Taatad ja esat gatavi braukt uz E85 tad iesaku likt B18 klanus un piemekleet virzuluz ar attieciigu kompresiju, jo ar B18 klaniem un B serijas stock virzuliem var dabuut pat 19:1 kompresiju, ko noteikti nevajag ir iespeejams itkaa dabuut 13:1 kompresiju ar B18 klaniem, bet zemaaku diez vai, tad jaasuuta spec virzuli... protams motoram buus labaak ja izmanto garaakus klanus...

Bet vis vienkaarshaakais variant ir likt piemeeram B16A virzulus un klanus, tad kompresijas pakaape buus apmeeram 10:1 kas ir normaala lai vareetu braukt ar 95bendziinu... un tas vareetu buut viens no leetaakajiem variantiem, jo tad atliek tikai paarchaulot bloku, sagatavot galvai degkameras telpu uz 81mm un pasuutiit galvas bliivi uz 81mm, jeebajaa var dabuut...
Vieniigi es nezinu var buut ka ja liek b16 klanus naaktos apvirpot mazliet klokenes vaigus, jo klanis ir iisaaks, ir iespeeja ka klokene vareetu skart virzuli(tas veel jaapeeta).
Protams ja ir veelme var mainiit virzulus un palielinaat, vai pamazinaat kompresiju...
Labums no shaada projekta ir taads, ka ieguusiet liekaaku litraazu, attieciigi klaat jaudu, un virzula diametrs attieciibaa pret virzula gaajienu palielinaas, un tas ir labaak prieksh aukstiem RPM...

un galu galaa man jaapiebils, es nevaru atrast D serijas projektu ar 81mm virzuliem, daudz kur esmu lasiijis ka tas ir iespeejams, un pat ir pieejamas galvas bliives prieksh shaadas kiimijas, bet neesmu pats dziivee paarbaudiijis...

Nu varbuut esmu kko veel piemirsis piebilst, un ir veel lietas kas veel jaapeeta, taamdeel ja kaadam ir intrese rakstiet jautaajiet, man tieshaam gribas lai kaads uzbuuvee kko shaadu te LV...
Man pasham padomaa ir jauns turbo projekts, taamdeel neesmu neko veel taadu uzbiidiijis...

[Bonz]

sanāk ap 1,8l d sērija?
izklausās jau labi!


kad hondisti no benzīnnieka uztiasīs turbo dīzeli?

[laksh]

sanāk ap 1,8l d sērija?
izklausās jau labi!


kad hondisti no benzīnnieka uztiasīs turbo dīzeli?

Jap var dabuut 1,8l...
Jaa tur kompresiju var izspiest kaa prieksh diizela